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Here are some things they don't teach you in knitting class, or if they do, you're lucky!

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If you're knitting a project that is knitted in pieces, knit one of the smaller pieces first, like a sleeve or a pocket, so you can check your gauge to be sure your gauge swatch was accurate. (Note: You still need to do a gauge swatch!) If you see your gauge is off, you won't be out much.

Sometimes you find a mistake several (or many) rows or rnds after you made it. Often it's possible to drop down and fix the mistake, unless the pattern runs at a diagonal, such as with many cable patterns. (In that case, you have to drop down all the sts involved, sometimes not worth it.) With st st, it's pretty easy: Put a st marker or safety pin in the offending st, work to the st at the top of the vertical row involved, take it off the needle and pull out the sts until you get to the mistake. Fix your mistake and then use a crochet hook to bring the next strand of yarn through the st, rep until you are back up to the needle. In garter st, it's more complicated. You have to alternate between taking the st from the front or the back. Here's an example:

The st marker is at the mistake, which has been fixed. I've been using my crochet hook to go through the st, grab the bottom strand and pull it through the st, making a new st. How do you know which side of the knitting you need to reach through? If the next strand is in back, you go through from the front; if the next strand is in front, you need to bring the st through to the other side (without twisting it) and then bring the strand (now in back) through the st. In the photo below, the next strand is in front. I will need to put the crochet hook through the space between the st on the hook and the next strand, using the handle of the crochet hook to pull it through. Then turn the hook around and reach through the st to grab the strand and bring it through. Alternate until back up at the needle. It's easy, once you get used to what it looks like. 

Thank you so much for explaining dropping down for garter stitch. I always mess it up and end up having to rip back.

Ha! I just figured it out myself! I had a st on the rt side where I hadn't caught the entire strand of yarn. It looked bad, and I couldn't figure out how to fix it without dropping down. It finally occurred to me that when you knit, the strand (working yarn) is in back. Duh! The hardest part is getting the st to the other side for the next one. The hook is on the wrong end, so you have to turn it around.

Now that you mention that, I think I literally turn my work around to do the stitches on the wrong side.

I turn mine back and forth. It's hard for me to grab the st from the other side and pull it through.

I see you got plenty of help with this question already. I just wanted to add, while we're discussing the CO row, that one of the difficulties with long-tail CO, the one I use most frequently, is that if you have a lot of sts to CO, you may find that the long tail was too short! To prevent this, you can CO with two strands: The one from the inside of the ball and the one from the outside. I do a slip knot with the two together, but don't count that as a st. When I'm done with the row, I cut one of the strands (I cut the one from the outside of the ball because I like to work with the one from the inside) and continue knitting. When I get to the end of the first row, I pull the extra CO st off. You have two more strands to darn in at the end, but it's so much faster than having to start over. If your yarn is wound into a ball that doesn't have center-pull as an option, you can use a second ball. Happy knitting. (Cross-posted in "Really BEGINNER'S question.")

I was teaching this to a friend recently. I couldn't remember how to start. I'm glad I wrote it here!

When weaving in ends after finishing a knitting project, you can hide the end easily anywhere you have stockinette stitch on the inside of your work, as in the ribbing. Thread your yarn needle and start at the closest end of the stockinette stitch. Run the needle in the side of the first stitch in same direction as the stitch. Skip the next one and then go through the next st. Continue, threading through every other stitch until you reach the end of the ribbing or the end is well out of sight. If you really want, you can go back up the other side of the vertical row of stitches.

When you pull the yarn through, it will be invisible. (You may have to adjust the tension by pulling slightly on the needle or by stretching the fabric a bit.)

I do the same when my end is at or near ribbing. Thanks for listing this tip.

PS: I can't wait to see the finished sweater!

Any tips for weaving in the ends when finishing socks done toe-up?  Still trying to find a nice looking way to weave them in.

Wendy, you could do the same thing as this, if you have a ribbed cuff. I must confess that, although I've knit a number of socks toe-up, it isn't my preferred method. I might do it to get leaves that go up the foot rather than down, but more likely, I'll just decide I like the look of leaves draped over the foot or ankle, instead of growing upwards.
You do have a tail at both ends of a sock, you know, so those of us who prefer to start at the cuff and w work down have the same problem. If I don't have st st to work with, I try to mirror the sts as much as possible.
Maybe someone else will chime in with a good suggestion?


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