Personally, I love Betsy McCarthy's book, Knit Socks - it covers the basics and more advanced techniques such as using two circulars or magic loop instead of using double pointed needles. Plus it has lots of great patterns ranging from basic to more advanced colorwork socks.
If you are interested in doing socks from the toe up, I highly recommend Wendy Johnson's book Socks from the Toe Up. There is lots of great info on sock techniques, and this was the book I used for my first toe up socks! What I really appreciated about this book is that Wendy gives you plain vanilla socks with different heel types in the beginning of the book - which lets you really see the differences in heel types. I have also found a heel I really liked and now I am able to swap out heels in different patterns in order to use the heel of my preference.
Hope this helps, I am sure others will have great suggestions as well. Good luck in your sock knitting :)
SHIFT TOTE question. This is my first attempt at intarsia. Watched Kerin's youtube video on this, but need a little more hand-holding. Question is about the cutting and re-attaching mentioned in the pattern. Row 1, I knit across, changing balls every ten stitches. Then Row 2, I purl back, but first segment is only 9 stitches, creating the "shift." That leaves a single stitch at the end of row two -- do I cut the yarn that started the row and attach it here for one stitch-- and use it for first two stitches of Row 3? Then cut it again and reattach for the last 8 stitches at the end of row 3? So almost every row will require cutting/re-attaching, except every 10th row or so. This is the way I have interpreted the instructions, but want to be sure I'm not missing some other obvious thing I should be doing. THANKS FOR ANY ADVICE!
That amount of cutting seems unreasonable to me... is there another ball of the same color that you can attach to that end? I'm assuming that is where the seam goes- so you'd want the same color at the end of the row as at the beginning... but I'd think there would be an easier way than that much chopping.
But- I don't have that pattern either. Hopefully Cheryl will find someone who knows. :)
When you are describing row 2, you mention a single stitch is left over. This is going to become a new stripe that will grow by adding one more stitch to that color for each row, while at the same time the stripe that was 9 stitches will be 8, then 7, then 6, and so on until the stripe "goes away." When the pattern says: These will be used throughout the bag, each being cut at one end and reattached at the other as the chevrons pass by the edges of the bag, it means that when the stripe is complete you reattach the yarn, but not every row.
As for cutting the yarn at row 2, you don't have to do any cutting at all. Simply attach a new ball of your pre-wound smaller balls. So each stripe will have its own mini ball that you are working it with. The only time you will have to cut your yarn is every tenth row when the stripe is completed.
Let me know if this helps clarify things :)
What you are telling makes sense --- but just to be sure I understand -- there will be 15 balls on every row (except row 1,11,21,etc)? The instructions say make 14 balls (7 of each color), and at the end of Row 1 all 14 balls are attached. So are you saying I will need to "subdivide" balls when they are used on both ends of rows?
Oh goodness, I just had a long chat with Kerin and she dug out her original notes, pattern and the tech edit and the quantity was changed to 7 by the tech editor, but it was originally eight of each!
So yes, you are correct that there is an overlap where the same color is used on both ends and to compensate, eight balls of each color for 16 total should work out.
So sorry about this, our tech editors do a wonderful job but every once in a grand while things get mixed up. we will be putting up an official errata for this, sorry again and thanks for pointing this out!