Some episodes are lots better than others... some I don't care for at all. Some are really great. Cat Bordhi was on one I saw not long ago. She showed one of her socks from the Pathways, book... I'm guessing... and it was REALLY interesting because it did not have the "normal" sock heel at all.
It is the best of the knitting shows, though, so it would be a shame if it was dropped because the DIY/HGTV people don't have enough sense to run it at a reasonable time of day! It has recently been moved off of DIY channel here, where it ran at 2 am, to the HGTV channel where it now runs, on Fri only, at 6am. Which is even still too early. A knitting show should be run in the late morning or sometime in the afternoon when you are awake enough to pay attention!
Topic: Swatches
I have listened to most of the podcasts by Kelly and have read enough to be convinced to swatch. I have never made a complete swatch, just enough to get the gauge and have done well so far. However, I have a few questions for that complete gauge.
1. Is enough yarn included in the pattern to make a swatch? Do I buy an extra skein?
2. Kelly has mentioned several times that gauge changes in the body of the sweater. If I have washed my swatch and have the correct gauge, how do I compare that with the middle of the project (ie. sweater, hat etc.)
3. How do you count stitches in a cable pattern? One place may count differently because of a cross over or unpatterned area. (yes, no?)
I appreciate your help. I have not made anything elaborate, but am getting enough experience to want my sweaters to look right for me, so will be paying more attention to my work.
I can't help with the cable pattern question... how DOES one count stitches for cables??? I'm sure someone will come along to answer that. I could look it up, or hazard a guess. I know that cables pull the fabric up, so maybe by doing stockinette for several rows above the cable you could count those?
I always buy an extra skein in a neutral/light color, when possible, (especially if it is a fiber I've not used before), just to do swatches with and explore what the fiber will do. I've read in lots of places that you should, however, always swatch in the colors you are planning to use, particularly if it is a dark color because darker colors can actually change the weight of the fabric due to dye saturation. I wouldn't worry about that much unless I was making a garment where size is a critical issue and even then I don't personally know how big an issue that actually is in practice.
So, for a sweater in a darker color, I would purchase an extra skein in the sweater color for swatching... I think its always a good idea anyway. I might decide I want the sleeves longer, or that I'd like a hat or gauntlets to match it, and there are always the unexpected things you can't plan for.
The short answer about purchasing an extra skein, is, probably. I always do just cuz I don't like unpleasant surprises and I like to make LARGE swatches... at least 8-12' across, so I can really tell how the fabric will drape and get a really good look at the stitch pattern, and to learn/review the stitch pattern before working it in the project. I've found it saves me a lot of time overall, and it improves my technique and skill to make that extra effort. It just doesn't take that much time and it is "stress free" knitting.
I've not heard the Podcast, but I know from other books/resources about sweaters, that because a sweater is larger, the weight of the fabric can pull it downward, changing the gauge and when wearing it and that can alter the fit. I suppose that is more of an issue the heavier the fabric/yarn used? Again, I consider this less a factor unless it is something intended to be worn... I don't worry about these things with afghans and scarves and craft projects, for instance.
Making a larger swatch, washing and blocking, and then measuring for gauge is your best protection, but there is always an element of the unknown in the ART of fabric construction. There are just too many variables between tools, fiber, and creator/designer to ensure a perfect formula. Even if you make the exact same sweater pattern, using the same tools, the choice of fiber... even the same fiber in a darker or lighter color, will have some sort of impact on the finished projects... although probably not so significant as to bring tears. :-)
I tend to always buy an extra skein or two for sweater projects, because sometimes I have a different row gauge than the pattern, or I make my sleeves longer. You can always unravel your swatch if you need the yarn to finish the project.
Measure the gauge before and after washing the swatch.
If you are knitting the body of the sweater in the round, knit your swatch in the round. If you are knitting the sweater flat, knit your swatch flat. Stockinette made of all knit rows can have a different gauge from stockinette made of a knit row followed by a purl row.
I could cable pattern stitches as if they were ribbed stitches. Say a cable is made of a column of 3 knit stitches, a column of 1 purl stitch, and another column of 3 knit stitches. I would count that cable as 7 stitches. If you are designing a cabled sweater and you have to make lots of cable swatches and calculate how to make a sweater fit you, check out Janet Szabo's Aran Sweater Design book.
Getting a sweater to fit you is harder than the forming the actual stitches in my opinion. I also like Maggie Righetti's Sweater Design in Plain English book. It shows you how to design a sweater to fit you, or customize an existing sweater pattern to make it uniquely fit your measurements.
I am starting the "Two at once, Toe Up, Magic Loop Socks" - and don't understand the directions under the heading "Cast On Toe" - I finally figured out what you meant by the "backward loop method" (I think). Going to the second paragraph:
what do you mean by the "back purl bump"? BUMP?
Pick up the stitch through the loop on the cable purlwise? Pick up the stitch through the bumps that lie below the loops on the needle?
I have taught myself most needlework techniques by reading and doing - but this one has me stymied.
I must have the cast on wrong. There is no row below - just a loop between the loops on the needle. Can you direct me to where it explains what you mean by "backward loop method"?
If you're not seeing it with the backwards loop cast on, you can try a long tail cast on. That might make it easier to see the purl bumps that you're picking up stitches through, but you'll get a little bit of a ridge inside the toe of your sock.
Which casting on tutorial is it? I don't see one that says
"Backward Loop Method". I would rather understand this method than have a ridge inside the sock.