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It is entirely possible you simply did your bind off too tight.

Try binding off with a needle one or two sizes larger than you used to work the neckline stitches and pull your yarn completely through all the bind off stitches so they fully "sit" on your needle's full diameter... the knit and the "pull over" stitches. It is probably nothing worse than that if the rest of the sweaters look like they fit correctly. It is a VERY common problem people have with binding off, particularly with necks and sock tops. :-)

Also, if you worked a rib stitch at the neckline, make sure you bound off in the rib stitch also: knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
Well, I took my swatch to my friendly LYS. She confirmed that I am purling looser than I am knitting. Her suggestion was that I should make something useful in stockinette to practice, and before I know it I will be knitting a beautiful stockinette without having to use 2 different sized needles. So I am going to make some dustcloths in stockinette with a garter stitch border until I get my tension right. Thanks for all your help!
Glad you found out what to do to fix it. I think its a great idea to work on something else and give your tension a chance to "settle in." I did an entire basketweave/checkerboard afghan simply to practice my knit and purl stitches! :-)
When can we start ordering City Tweed? What is the gauge so we can start looking for patterns?
The catalog indicated a release date as "late April." That would appear to mean it will be released for sale in about ten days to two weeks. (Sometime after April 15th, but before May 1st.)

If you are on the mailing list, you'll likely get an email the same day the new product becomes available to order and it will also show up in the "Shop" section... usually in a full color banner ad and on the main KP page. It'll be hard to miss when it becomes available for purchase! LOL! Oh... if you have a FaceBook account, you can also become a KP fan and you'll get the announcement via your FaceBook page. :-)

According to a post by a KP staffer, on Ravelry:

For planning purposes, here’s the low-down from the ball bands…

City Tweed DK
55% Merino Wool, 25% Superfine Alpaca, 20% Donegal Tweed
123 yards/50 grams
5.5 sts = 1” on #5-7 needles.
Hand wash, dry flat.

City Tweed HW
55% Merino Wool, 25% Superfine Alpaca, 20% Donegal Tweed
164 yards/100 grams
4-4.75 sts = 1” on #7-9 needles.
Hand wash, dry flat.

Additional info, regarding the Donegal Tweed content:
"Our donegal is a series of viscose nebs (think slubs or bits of lint) that are suspended in a very fine acrylic mesh which allows them to be spun alongside the longer alpaca and Merino fibers. In the yarn, you won’t be able to see the acrylic web at all, and the neps will appear either on the surface of the yarn or spun inside the yarn strand."
Hi - I have finally finished a project that took me about 8 months to complete - issue is that during that time I lost 50 pounds, which is wonderful but now my lovely sweater is HUGE! It is cotton so I washed it and shrank it up - but it is still huge. I have taken it in over an inch on the sides and it is starting to look better but I now have huge bulky seams on the sides. I would like to machine stitch these seams and then trim them but am worried that the stitching will unravel. Any ideas on how to approach this?

I dont know how to help you reduce your sweater, but congradulation on your weight loss, better to have loss weight and redo the sweater. Irene
Hello All.
I'm new to Knitpicks and knitting and I have so many questions.
For starters, I was wondering if I really do need to invest in a ball winder? Thus far, I have purchased standard skeins of yarn at my LYS and most do not have the center pull feature. I haven't yet purchased any yarns that come in hanks. Is there any reason I shouldn't have the skein bobbing around in my knitting bag as I pull the yarn? Of course, I would much rather have it pull from the center but it's more cost effective to let it just bob around.

Secondly, I am currently knitting my first cable scarf. I feel confident with the pattern and I am getting better at manipulating the cable stitch holder without losing some of my stitches. While I am knitting the scarf however, my mind is racing with thoughts of sock and hat knitting. I have asked many questions about both and the answers I have received are so varied. I was wondering if there is a preferred method that really lends itself to a beginner learning to knit in the round? I have the dvd that instructs how to knit socks on one circular needle and I have an instructional book on knitting with double pointed needles. Both instructions seem to be a bit confusing though not impossible. Would I be better off trying to knit a simple hat first? I am hoping to make socks my summer/fall project because I will be traveling for my son's baseball and need something to occupy my time.
Any help you can offer would be most appreciated.

Welcome to the Knitting Community!

- You don't necessarily need a ball winder, and you can always wind hanks of yarn into balls using the back of a chair and just wind by hand. I like to re-wind my yarn using a ball winder so that it doesn't tangle in my knitting bag, but it's certainly not necessary.

- If you've never knit in the round before, we have a free hat pattern that comes with a video tutorial. It makes a super-simple hat out of bulky yarn, and it'd be a really quick project to learn on. You could just jump right into socks - there's no "right" way to learn how to knit - but you might find this beginner hat project to be a helpful stepping stone.

If you are going to jump right into socks, I really recommend knitting them using a long circular, but that's just my own personal preference. Here's our tutorial page for all circular knitting techniques, if you want to see a comparison of the different methods.
Based on the answers of other knitters, can I assume that using one long circular is the same as using the Magic Loop method?
I watched the hat tutorial (Easy Peasy Hat) and it seems simple enough for a beginner. My confusion lies with the cable length. If I need a smaller length for a hat (the suggested needle had a cable length of 16"), then why would I need a long cable for socks--which have a narrower opening? Pardon my naivete, I'm just trying to get a handle on what I need to purchase for socks and/or hats.
I did notice that the interchangeable needles don't allow for shorter cables to be attached. Is it safe to assume then that for the Easy Peasy hat, I would buy the fixed circular in 16"?
As a beginner, if I am planning to try knitting socks and hats, could you recommend a good basic set of needles for purchase (if I didn't want to invest in the interchangeable--although they do seem more cost effective in the long run).
Wow, so much information to process.
I'd be lying if I said I thought the circular seemed easier than the double pointed. The DPN seem more cumbersome to manipulate, but I find those directions to be more easily digested. When I watch the tutorials for the long-cabled circular needles, I am not completely clear on what I am looking at when the stitches get moved to and fro.

Thanks so much to all who took the time to respond.
I don't want to be a wannabe knitter who owns lovely yarn but does nothing with it. :)

Once you do your first sock (no matter what method you choose), all of the confusion will be gone. Yes, DPNs are cumbersome, and stitches can slip off very easily - not what you want to happen.
The extra length in the cable actually makes the socks easier to knit... with too short a cable, well, you can't knit in that tight of a circle.


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