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Also, the tubular cast on is pretty stretchy if you are knitting a ribbed edging. But the cabled cast on is easier to knit.
My new Knit Picks yarn ball winder came today, and at first it was fantastic! But I'm using a very nobby silk and wool blend yarn from Harrisville Designs (sport, almost finger weight), and after the ball was about half full it kept leaping under the winder and getting all tangled. I had the hand-held option on, since I couldn't figure out how to attach the clamp, but I was pretty sure I was holding it still and facing the same direction, and winding at a consistent speed, etc. Help!
Linen and silk yarns sometimes like to jump off of the ball winder when you're using it because they are slick. If you wind the yarn more slowly, it won't jump off.
I'm having trouble getting my new ball-winder to work properly. I was wondering if there is a video of someone using it? The problem I'm having is that the incoming yarn will "catch" on the edge of the saucer-shaped edge, and then slide underneath the whole thing and wind in the wrong place. This happens more often as the ball gets bigger. I was trying to wind up a 50-gram ball of WotA -- is that too much yarn?
We do have a video! You should be able to wind a 50g ball of WotA with no problems, so let us know if you're still having trouble after watching the video.
Aha! The video made all the difference. I realized that I had not moved the metal guide out of the "storage" position -- it works much better when the metal guide is in the proper orientation. Thank you!! :).
I would like to know if I have a sock pattern that calls for sportweight yarn and size 4 needles, can I use fingering weight and size 2 or 3 needles and get the same size sock?
There should be a notation on the pattern you are using that tells you the gauge for that pattern. If you can obtain the same gauge with the fingering weight yarn and the size 2 or 3, than probably yes.
Lynn: I agree with Susan, but with one caveat--If you use fingering weight for the pattern and can get gauge with your needles, you will end up with the same size sock, but it will be very loosely knit and probably will not wear well. I would recommend:
1) switching to the size yarn called for in the pattern, or
2) changing to a completely different pattern, or
3) adapting the pattern to deal with more sts.
With most sock patterns, you can check to see how many sts in the repeat (four, five, six...) and adding that number again and again until you get enough sts to go around your foot with the gauge you get with your yarn and needles. Make your heel with about half the sts (for a traditional sock). If you have a traveling st that moves across the entire sock, you can look at the pattern and try to find a place to add the additional sts. Charlene Schurch's Sensational Knitted Socks has charts for a number of different repeats in a wide range of sizes and gauges, so you can just look up what you get with YOUR yarn and YOUR needles. Then you can use 4 or 5 dpns or 2 circs (which is also adaptable for ML). Good luck! --Peggy
I have a question about winding hank yarn into a ball via a ball winder.
Need Help.

I have purchased my first lot of lace weight yarn, they are in HANK form. I never wound yarn, but I will learn now.

Will the entire hank fit on a ball winder, 400 some yards, it would seem not to, but I don't know. If the entire hank doesn't fit, at what point should you stop and break the yarn, in order to start the new ball?

I guess I am wondering, how much yarn does a ball winder hold that is lace weight. I am using the KP ball winder. No I don't have a swift.
I was able to wind the entire hank into a ball on the ball winder without any problem. The lace weight yarn is very fine, and will fit without queston.
Thanks so much for the response.


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